If you are replacing the oil pump, remove the pick-up tube from the old oil pump, unless you will be installing a new one as well. Clean the gasket surface also.Ĭlean the inspection plate and straighten any kinks and warping. Mine had a bit of rust on the inner surface the was more or less removed with the solvent and wiping. Start motor and be sure oil pressure comes up and that there are no leaks.Ĭlean the oil pan with solvent and inspect the mounting flange for warping/damage. Reinstall the oil dipstick, fill with oil and check for immediate leaks. Reinstall the inspection cover, the starter, the transmission to motor struts and the exhaust y-pipes, if removed. This part took the longest of the reassembly for me. If you didn't raise the motor, it can be a pain.
If you raised the engine, install the gasket to the block. Using gasket adhesive, install a new gasket on the oil pan, if you didn't raise the engine. Apply RTV to the corners where the main cap contacts the block and where the front of the pan hits the timing cover. Install the primed oil pump, making sure the driveshaft is correctly aligned. If you loosened other caps, start at the center and torque them all, working outwards, in three steps to spec (85 lb-ft for me). Wipe the crank surface and lightly oil the parts afterwards (you want good lube/oil in there not the any dirty stuff).
Also apply some RTV to the notches where the oil pan gasket fits. Reinstall the main cap, after applying a drop of loctite on either side of the cap surface, between the bearings and seal.
If you do this, you need to retorque ALL the caps when you are done. I had to loosen the two caps closest to the rear main. You may need to loosen the bearing caps immediately in front of the rear one to help relieve the pressure from the crank on the seal.
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